Day 15 - Friday - June 15, 2012

Today was to be our last full day in Ecuador and we were scheduled to take a tour to the equator. Luis was our guide for today and he picked us up at 10:00 am and we headed north.
Interestingly enough we found out that there are really two equator sites in Ecuador. The first is La Mitad del Mundo (the middle of the world), which is the location calculated by the French in 1736 as the equatorial line and which is also the basis for the metric system. There is a huge monument here to mark the spot. About 2 miles east is a museum called Museo Solar Inti Nan which houses the true equator line as calculated by a GPS. In this museum there are exhibits such as seeing water drain clockwise in the south but counter clockwise in the north, balancing an egg on a nail head on the equator line and trying to walk a straight line on the equator while feeling the forces of the north and south converge on you. It was all quite interesting and informative and we enjoyed our visit here.
Upon leaving the museum, Luis took us to a nearby town that specializes in fritadas which is fried pork. So we stopped at this little hole in the wall family business that had a whole pig hanging in the back where they cut pieces of pork from it and then they deep fry it in this wok style pan out front. They serve it with two kinds of corn, plantains and potatoes and it was all very tasty. The three of us had a full lunch with soft drinks for a total of $8.30. I am still amazed as to how much food you can get in the local cafeteria style places for such little money.
After lunch, Luis dropped us off near our hotel and we walked up the street, got some ice cream and headed over to Plaza Grande. We sat and did some people watching for a while and man do I mean people watching. I am still amazed as to how many people there are in such a small area such as Quito, and why are they all walking around all day long? Don't they have to work? From about 6:00am to 6:00 pm the streets are bustling, then it settles down a bit only to start up again the next morning.
After a while we headed back to the hotel and finished packing and chilled out for the rest of the day. We had some sandwiches at the hotel for dinner and then off to bed early some we have to get up early for a long travel day tomorrow.

Day 14 - Thursday - June 14, 2012

Today we were scheduled for a day tour to Otavalo to go to the outdoor market that they have where the indigenous people all sell their hand made products. We were picked up at 8:00 am by Gabriel and started a long ride towards Otavalo. Along the way Gabriel told us of a lot of the history of Quito and the surrounding areas.
Our first stop was in Cayambe at a local family bakery where they make bizcochos which is a biscuit that is made only in this area of the country. The one family bakery that we visited had about 6 people around this huge pile of dough all making these biscuits. They make between 5,000 and 6,000 of these biscuits a day using authentic wood burning ovens which makes them unique to all the other bakeries selling bizcochos s they all use traditional ovens.
A little further down the road and we were looking out at a view point to the Cotacachi volcano. It was a bit cloudy today but that added a bit to the view that we witnessed.
The next stop was at the famous Otavalo market. Unfortunately is was not Saturday when the market is more lively with many more people as well as the animal market nearby, but still we enjoyed walking that market and seeing the wares that people had. I got to practice my haggling skills which I am not good at but Dave helped me to stand my ground a bit on some items and we scored a handbag, a couple of belts, a hand pained bowl and a really nice alpaca wool blanket. I was really happy with the purchases we made and the price I paid for things.
Next Gabriel took us to Peguche to see the waterfall called Cascades de Peguche. The area is a nice quiet area in which the local community has taken over the the upkeep of the park area and they have a nice camping area and have made a walkway to the waterfall. It is not a large waterfall but it is a nice place to visit and just chill for a little while.
Our next stop was at a local family's weaving shop. The lady showed us how they collect and comb the wool, then spin it into strings, collecting a ball of the string to use to weave. She then showed us how she colors the different threads. She takes water and then adds different items to make the colors such as some nuts are used to make brown, she used a plant to make the green and then she showed us how she used a bug that lives on the cactus plants. First if you just crush the bug and use the blood, you can make red, if you then put some citrus juice on that, it makes orange and lastly if you add baking soda to that, it makes a deep maroon color. They next showed us how they used the loams. There was an old traditional one that it used by men whereby they sit on the ground and wrap the loam around their back and then weave the pattern in front of them. One of the young guys sat at the more modern loam and he just worked so quickly and effortlessly, or at least it looked that way to us.
Lastly we went up Cotacachi and we walked through the main town to see their leather goods. Every other store was selling some type of leather and I wonder how anyone decides which store to buy from. We stopped in a couple of stores just to see the prices and they were more than what we would pay in the states but they may have been a bit better made as well. We didn't buy anything here but it was nice to see the local industry.
After this we made our way back to Quito and because of traffic it took a little longer but we made it back by 4:00 which was good because we could use a rest before dinner.
Tonight we went to Mea Culpa for dinner which is located in the Plaza Grande. It was set in a nice colonial setting overlooking the plaza. We started with an appetizer of shrimp, scallops and asparagus in an olive oil and cayenne pepper sauce and it was very good. The scallops were slightly overcooked but the flavor of it all was great. Dave had the tenderloin which was served with mushrooms in a port wine sauce and I had the chicken which was served in a champagne sauce which was a little sweet but still very good. We were going to attempt dessert but we were too full after our entrees so we had to pass.
We headed back to the hotel and even though it was a little later tonight, about 8:30, the streets were still busy and we walked back without a problem.
It was a long day and I was happy to be able to get some rest as tomorrow is our last full day in Ecuador.

Day 13 - Wednesday - June 13, 2012

Well we had a good night sleep and slept until 8:00 am and then showered and went for breakfast.
I hadn't really planned much for the day but since it looked to be a clear morning we decided to head up to the viewpoint at El Panecillo which is located on a hill overlooking Quito and is a statue of the winged Virgin. We got a taxi because it is quite a hike and I heard that it is not safe to walk. When we arrived at the top of the hill, the taxi driver offered to stay and wait for us. We paid $1.00 each to go into the base of the statue where we climbed up the base till the second floor where there were windows to view outward. There was a stairwell to go up to the first balcony but it looked small and steep and I was getting claustrophobic just looking up it so we didn't go any farther. The view from up there was amazing and we were both surprised as to how many houses there were within and near Quito. After a while we had the taxi driver drop us off at the Plaza Grande.
Walking the streets we were overwhelmed first of all by how many people there were around and second by the number of stores and how they were placed. It seems like the lower level of each building had store after store after store. The width of each store is not more than 10 feet and the depth may have been double that for some. The mixture of stores was so diverse as well. The would be a small store, next to a party store, next to a store selling underwear, next to a small cafeteria restaurant. It really does make your head spin.
Aside from all these streets filled with all these stores and all these people, there are of course the sites to see in the historic center of town.
We saw the Presidential Palace, and we toured the Cathedral Primada de Quito which was also in the same square. We walked up to the Basilica and also toured inside here as well. This cathedral was very large and there was a small mass going on at the time but they allow you to visit and not disrupt things so we walked around and admired mostly the stained glass and the view from the back of the church to the front made it seem almost endless.
We walked around a bit more trying to get our bearings and it was around lunch time so Dave saw one of the small cafeterias that was quite busy with locals so we decided to eat there. For $3.50 for the both us of us, we got a local Ecuadorian soup that had yucca, meat, corn and broth and a plate of fried chicken, rice and beans plus a glass of juice....really, it was $3.50!!!!!! For the both of us....
After this we walked around a bit and were sitting in the Plaza Grande when we spotted two of the kids that were on our Galapagos cruise. We called them over and talked for a while. They were trying to decide if they were going to go to Columbia first or just travel south through Peru. I envy them being so young being able to see so much but at least Dave and I are able to do some things.
We headed to the room for a little while to chill a bit before deciding what to do for dinner.
The receptionist at the hotel gave us recommendations so we will try one of those out tonight.
We headed out about 6:30 back to the Plaza Grande to the Palacio Arzobispol which houses a lot of shops and restaurants. We ate at Hasta la Vuelta, Senor where we had empanadas, and Dave had the grilled chicken and I had the shrimp in garlic sauce and everything was very good.
We left full and waddled our way back to the hotel. It was only about 7:30 and not too dark and there were still plenty of police around so we walked back to our hotel and made it without incident.
Another great day in the city.

Day 12 - Tuesday - June 12, 2012

Well, this morning was the last breakfast on board and while we ate, the crew collected our luggage and sent them off to shore for our trip to the airport. We were docked at the southern end of Santa Cruz and we had to make our way to Baltra at the northern end of the island which proved to be an adventure.
First we took a panga ride ashore then we hopped on a bus and we did one last quick walk in the highlands of Santa Cruz and then continued on the bus until we reached the water again and then we had to take a ferry in which all of our luggage was thrown on the top of the ferry. We only went a short distance and then we were off the ferry and onto another bus that finally brought us to the airport. We wandered through the small market that is outside of the airport and then eventually we had to check-in for our flight.
Finally we are on our way back to Quito for a few more days. We arrived in Quito earlier than scheduled and I didn't find a driver with our name waiting so I asked the lady at the taxi stand and she gladly said that she had a driver to take us but what I didn't realize until it was too late was that she was giving me a regular taxi and we had to pay for it and by the time I figured that out it was too late. So, we paid the guy and thought lesson learned. A while after we were checked in our travel agent called because our actual driver had gone to the airport and could not find us. I told her of our mishap and she apologized and said that she would send over a refund to us at our hotel which I thought to be very nice since it was our fault anyway.
Dave and I were pretty tired today so we just hung out at the hotel and had dinner here as well which was pretty good and at a decent price as well.
Finally we will be sleeping without any motion and without having to get up early.

Day 11 - Monday, June 11, 2012

The motion last night was quite rough but Dave and I fared pretty well with our patches and I only had one slightly queasy moment which passed fairly quickly.
The ship stopped moving by 3:00 am so people could get a few hours of sleep in if they didn't last night.
Today we visited the island of Floreana which is one of only four island that are inhabited. We were met by some sea lions on the dock and then by William who is a descendant of the Ritters who settled here back in the 1930's. We drove in a truck up to the highlands where we hiked for a little while to see some of the early settlements and some caves that were used by the pirates. We were also able to see some tortoises along the way and even witnessed one taking a bit of a stroll.
Next we headed up the side of one of the mountains to get a glimpse inside one of the collapsed volcanos as well as the volcanos behind it. The walk was nice but I stepped on a nest of fire ants which kept biting at my ankles. Dave helped me get rid of all of them and I had no residual side effects from it but man do they bite hard.
Then we traveled down to Fredo's farm and some of the descendants of the Ritters prepared us a great lunch of veggies, salad and both steak and chicken. They were very gracious to us and I thoroughly enjoyed our visit there. It was like being at a big family reunion and they all wanted to make sure that we had enough to eat.
Now it's time to get back on the boat and start the next leg of our journey to Santa Cruz.
This last journey was a little rough as well but it was during the day which seems to have made it easier. We arrived in Puerto Auyro  just before dinner and we had a sort of farewell cocktail reception with the entire crew since tomorrow will be a bit hectic as we have to disembark. The crew on board was very nice, attentive and helped us all a little with our Spanish.  I'll comment now about our naturalist guide for the week. Fausto was a very well educated person who knew plenty about the Galapagos as he had been a guide for 20 years but we felt that there were a few times that he bent the rules that he was supposed to enforce particularly those that dealt with distance to the animals. But overall we did not let it affect our experience and we saw some amazing things.
Tonight after our last dinner on board we took a panga ride into town for a walk around the port and to buy some souvenirs. Then we had to head back on board and get some packing done.

Day 10 - Sunday - June 10, 2012

This morning was our first real early morning as we got up at 5:30 so that we could take a panga  ride through the mangroves at Bahia Elizabeth on Isabela.  Somehow Dave and I were on different pangas  but they stayed pretty close together. We started off by getting close to a very small island where there were about 6 cormorants and one little sea lion sleeping on the rocks. The sun was coming up in front of us too and we got some good shots of it as it rose.
Next we went towards the mangroves and we saw some cow-nose rays in the water which we had never seen before. They have an orange color to them and a shape like the eagle ray. If you were quick enough, you got to see a couple of penguins here and there but they were fast and didn't stay on top of the water very much. The drivers shut off the panga  engines and paddled through so as not to disturb anything too much. We saw glimpses of turtles, sea lions and cormorants and overall was a nice peaceful ride.
We got back on board ship for breakfast and then the ship moved a little south and after a quick rest we were off to snorkel through some lava caves where we saw dozens of sea turtles swimming around along with some of the usual tropical fish. It is amazing that there is so much color in the fish yet the water is colder and there is hardly any coral at all in some spots. Lastly we saw a sea lion that was just done swimming hoisting himself up onto the rocks to take his nap.
Back to the ship and a bit of a rest until lunch.
Lunch today started with some fish cerviche which I enjoyed but Dave passed on due to the abundance of red onions. The main course was pork and it seemed almost as though they had roasted a whole pig. It was very tender and juicy.
A short rest and then a walk on Punta Moreno on Isabela. There wasn't much in terms of wildlife to see here. We hiked over big lava rocks and saw a couple of lagoons in which one there were some flamingos. Even though the hike was a little less than an hour it was extremely hot so when we got back to the ship Dave and I decided to skip the afternoon snorkel this time. Instead we hung on the top deck and had a couple of beers.
Once everyone was back from snorkeling the ship got underway to reach our next port which was to be Floreana. It was quite a long trip and the waves were quite large. Dinner was quite the experience in that most people were feeling a bit green and did not eat too much for dinner. Tonight everyone went to bed pretty early and strapped in for a bumpy ride.

Day 9 - Saturday - June 9, 2012

Last night was a very restful sleep. We were both feeling well and since the boat traveled earlier in the day, it was already anchored and the water was very calm for the night. So, we woke up refreshed and headed to breakfast which today features pancakes and everyone seemed to be pleased with that.
About 8:00 we head out for the first excursion which will take us to Punta Espinosa on Fernandina island. This was a dry landing into a path that ran through the mangrove trees. The highlight here was more marine iguanas but first we saw what looked like a little mouse in our path but Fausto says it was a Galapagos rat. As we hike through the mangroves we come upon a beach area that is loaded with marine iguanas. They are basking in the sun climbing on each other, laying on each other and spitting out salt through their noses, especially if you get too close.
They really were not amused or threatened by us so we got to walk pretty close up to them while still respecting their space.
Along our path we also saw the bones of what is thought to be a small whale. You could still see many characteristics of the creature from the bones that had been found.
We also saw the lava effects on this island which are formed into rope shapes along the ground.
Towards the end of our hike we saw two Galapagos Hawks that were in different trees and we could hear them calling to each other.
Lava cactus also grow here and it was strange to see that they need very little soil to set roots into. As we were looking at some of the cacti, we were near the edge of a small crack in the lava and we saw three racer snakes down in the little canyon. They look a lot like our garden snakes only bigger. Fausto claims that two of them were mating but I don't know you would tell. As we made our way back to our launch site we came across some sea lions hanging out. A couple were in the water and a mom and baby were on land and one had plopped himself down in a crevice in the lava.
After this we headed back to the boat, got our wetsuits on and went snorkeling. Here we saw some marine iguanas feeding on the seaweed at the bottom of the ocean. We also saw some unusual green sea urchins. I caught a couple of glimpses of a sea lion but he was very fast and didn't stick around long.
Back on the boat for lunch and then we moved down a little and across to Isabela  island again and stopped at Bahia Urbina where we saw the land iguanas which are much more colorful than the marine ones and we saw Galapagos tortoises as well. There were also a few other sights such as fairly large hermit crabs and some little yellow warblers.
All in all today was a good day and we got to see quite a bit of new things here.
Per usual dinner was good. Tonight was pieces of steak in a little bit of sauce which was just an a jus type sauce. There were mashed potatoes as well which went pretty fast.
Tonight Fausto  gave a presentation on the island of Floreana which we will be visiting on Monday. Apparently the first inhabitants were prisoners from the mainland that they sent out to the islands since there was no real way to get back to the mainland. Next came rich folks who tried to turn the prisoners into slaves but after a while the prisoners revolted and killed their masters. Ecuador had wanted to promote the islands and since Floreana had a fresh water source, they invited people to come and they would give them land for free. Some of the Europeans thought it would be a great life so they packed up and moved to Floreana. Once here some were trying to rule over the others and then they just disappeared one day and no one knew where they went. It seems like the island has quite a history of violence. And on that note, we are sent off to sleep.

Day 8 - Friday - June 8, 2012

Last night was a bit rough for Dave - he wasn't feeling well and probably just had a case of travelers disease. He was doing a little better in the morning but decided to skip the morning excursion. Now I am the one wondering, what the heck did I get him into.
A little bit after breakfast I went on the morning trip with the rest of the group to Isabela island which is the largest and youngest in the Galapagos and we will make a few different landings here over the next few days. Today we land around the most northern part of the island at a spot called Punta Albermarie. This the site where the US Army once had a base. This island also has hundreds of marine iguanas and they were just lying on the rocks and a few were even in the middle of the paths. We were able walk anywhere around here to observe the iguanas as well as see the remains left by the US Army.
After spending a bit of time at this location, we head back to the ship. So far this landing was the roughest. Even though it is classified as a dry landing, you are landing on wet lava rock which is very slippery even to those that had good hiking shoes. We did all make it back in one piece though so that is a good thing.
Back on the Samba I find that Dave was able to eat an apple and have a Sprite since they didn't have gingerale and he seems to be doing a bit better.
We have some lunch which included a nice soup, salad, beets(again) as well as a beef stir-fry and even though Dave and I only ate a little bit, we find it to be good. Dessert today was peaches poached in a wine sauce.
During our lunch we got underway to our second spot of the day, and just as we finished lunch we all headed to the captain's deck to view the GPS mark the 0.00' as we crossed the equator. Our next stop was still on Isabela  but was at Punta Vicente Roca. This not a site where we can land so we had water excursions, the first was snorkeling just on the outskirts of the island and this time the water was quite cold and we were glad we wore wetsuits. Dave was feeling better and he came along but he didn't stay in as long as the rest of us because of the water temp. While he was in the water with me we saw a sea turtle, then another, then another and when we looked at the bottom of the ocean floor there were many more just hanging out in the bottom of the sea. It was amazing to see how many there were. Dave went back to the pangas and waited until the rest of us finished snorkeling. I was just kind of floating around and all of a sudden I came upon 3 sea lions just playing around in the water. One of them had a lizard that he just kept bringing to the surface and then dropping, then going back down and swooping it up again. He was quite a treat to watch and I hovered there for quite a while with him watching him play and trying to get some pictures and a little video of him, we'll have see how good these come out. Some of the others in the group as well Dave from the pangas saw a few penguins playing around but I missed those.
Once the snorkeling was done, we headed back the ship and redressed into dry clothes and then went on a ride in the pangas  to observe the walls of the sunken volcano and there we saw many birds, lizards and some fur seals playing in the water. Those guys move so fast it was impossible to get a picture of them from where we were sitting.
Next it's back on the boat and we will travel southwest to Fernandina which sits to the west of Isabela. The crossing was fairly easy and pleasant as far the motion goes since we were heading into the channel between Isabela and Fernandina.
Dinner was curry shrimp with the usual salad, yucca, and some carrots and broccoli. They told us dessert was cheesecake but it had more of a custard or flan texture but still it was very good. After dinner Fausto  gave a bit of a geology session to explain how the islands were developed through the shifting of the tectonic plates and then the islands were lifted above the ocean's surface. I find it interesting that they say some of the islands are still young yet they have been here for hundreds of years.
Tomorrow we are due to visit both a part of Isabela  and a part of Fernandina.

Day 7 - Thursday - June 7, 2012

Fausto was not lying last night, the anchor does come up at 5:30 and we are headed to Marchena. This was the first meal in which the boat was moving and it was a little bit of an experience. As breakfast was finishing, someone spotted a fin popping up out of the water along side of the ship and it was determined that is was a black tip shark. He didn't stick around long and quickly outran us.
Awhile after breakfast we had our first snorkeling of the day just on the outskirts of the island. Man is it a chore getting those damn wetsuits on but they sure do keep you warm. Jose, the captain, helped me get my wet suit on and I felt a little silly with him tugging and pulling like a little kid having their parent put their snow suit on. Finally, I am ready and Jose asks, "Listo?". "Si, listo!" ready!
As usual Dave and I are bringing up the rear and almost immediately we saw a hammerhead shark swimming by right underneath us. I was also pretty surprised that they had their share of Sargent majors, angelfish and the biggest parrot fish that we have ever seen. A while later we spotted a huge moray eel swimming along the bottom trying to find a place to hide. A few people dove down to see her better but she was not happy to see them and let them know by opening her mouth very wide. We also saw a huge Guineafowl puffer that was bright yellow and a very large rock lobster. Overall it was a decent snorkeling trip even though the waters were a little rougher than we would have liked.
So, back on board where we hang out for a little while then have some lunch which today is pasta with both red and a white cream sauce with salad and cherry tomatoes with mozzarella cheese and pesto.
We had a short break between lunch and our second snorkeling and then we were off. We traveled to the edge of the island and climbed over a little lava area to reach a lagoon on the other side. Once Dave and I were in the water we saw a small sea lion playing in the water near the rocks. He was diving and doing somersaults and just plain playing. He swam pretty close to Dave at one point and then just darted away although we saw him a few more times after this too. We also saw a good size sea turtle but he was at the bottom of the lagoon and didn't come up to see us. Also interesting was a tiger snake eel which looked like a white snake with spots on it. I'm not sure why but maybe because I read so much about swimming with the sea lions and penguins, I was amazed at the number of tropical fish that we would normally see in the Caribbean here.
Back to the boat where we start out longest journey to Isabel and hopefully we will see some whales along the way.
Once we got on our way, you could feel the boat start to sway more as the current got heavier. We hung out during the light hours to try and find some whales but we did not see any. Dinner was an event as it was definitely choppier and many of us were feeling the affects. It was early to bed tonight.

Day 6 - Wednesday - June 6, 2012

Well, the first night on board wasn't too bad. We could feel the motion in our cabin but it didn't seem to bother us. Being on a ship this size is different as in you feel the motion and hear the engine all the time, but we do seem to be adjusting. As for my stomach, it seems that things are better this morning but I take it easy on what I eat just in case.
We traveled north last night to arrive at Genevosa which is a sunken crater that has filled with water now. After breakfast we take our first excursion to a beach area and immediately we see some sea lions on the beach. There was Mom with a couple of pups and one is them kept trying to nurse off her. She would let it for a couple of seconds but then she would roll over or swat him away but he would come right back for more.
The island is know for its birds and we saw all kinds on our walk this morning. There were male frigate birds that had their red plumage all puffed out but this was the end of the mating season so not as many of the males were all decked out but it was quite a sight to see.
We also saw blue footed bobbies, red footed boobies, and nazcar boobies along with red-billed tropic birds, brown pelicans, lava herons, and a common egret. We walked through a path in which we saw many of the birds nesting and we caught glimpses of some of the eggs along with some of their young. There were hundreds of each type of bird and except for the frigate birds who tried to steal everyone else's food and supplies, they all seemed to get along fairly well.
Next was back to the ship for some lunch and a well needed nap.
For our second excursion we went to another part of Genevosa and climbed Prince Phillip's Steps which were not as tough as I thought they were going to be. Up top was a great view and many more of the same birds as earlier including  the Galapagos mockingbirds. We ventured over to a flat patch of lava and started to look for owls which are hard to find because they are the same shade as the lava rocks. Well, as usual, Dave was the first to spot something. It was quite far away but we could see it through our binoculars. Fausto had us move down a bit and then we saw it much better and in the meantime we also spotted 2 more. They are the short eared owl and as the sun started to settle a bit, the light hit them just right and you could see the nice yellow color of their chest feathers.
By this time it was getting late and we had to head back to the pangas to get back to the boat before dark.
We only had a short time before dinner so we had some tea and then sat for dinner which tonight was salad, beets, potatoes and chicken. I can say that all was good except the beets because Dave and I did not even try them. Dessert was chocolate cake with a cream sauce on it and it was very good although a bit rich so I only ate half.
Fausto came after dinner to explain to us about the currents in the Galapagos and how it changes the water temp and brings in more food and nutrients with the cold current better known as the Humbold  current. Hopefully this change brings things like whales to the outer western area which we will be sailing through tomorrow afternoon/night time.  He then also tells us that tomorrow we will anchor outside of  Marchena and while we can't go on to the island, we will snorkel twice in areas around the island.
We are also told to get some sleep because the anchor comes up at 5:30 and we will be heading to Marchena then.

Day 5 - Tuesday - June 5, 2012

Another day with an early start at 5:45 am so that we can catch our plane to the Galapagos Islands. I find it strange that when you go on vacation to a destination, you must always get up early but I suppose we can sleep some other time.
Our travel arrangements to the Galapagos was smooth as we had a guy Tony waiting for us at the airport to whisk us through the details. First we have to get our Galapagos Transit Card and once that was done, Tony takes our bag and goes and checks us in for our flight. He took our passports and went to a smaller line and then came back with our tickets, now that's service.
The flight to the islands was pretty uneventful. Dave and I had put on our seasick patches before leaving this morning so that we would be all set come time to get on the boat.
Once we landed in the Galapagos at the Baltra airport on Santa Cruz, we went through immigration where we also had to pay our national park fee, then they checked our carry luggage to ensure that no one was bringing anything to the islands that could grow and possibly take over an area. Then we collected our checked luggage and found our guide for our trip, Fausto.
They loaded us all up on a bus and brought us to the docks where we had to take a panga ride out to our ship and home for the week, the Samba. They started out with the assigning our cabins and Dave & I are in cabin #7 which is strange because I heard that this cabin, because it is on the top floor, gets all of the motion during the sailings and this made me a little nervous. I had specifically asked the travel agent to make sure we had room below near the engine as those were to be the most stable. But I figured that Dave and I had our patches on so what harm could it do. It's a decent little cabin with a double bed (all the others are bunk beds), some storage space and a small bath room with a stand up shower.
We unload our stuff into the room and then go downstairs for a briefing and some lunch as we head out to another end of Santa Cruz. At 3:00 is our first landing onto a beach area where we immediately see some marine iguanas and Sally lightfoot crabs. We hiked a trail out to where there was a small lagoon with a couple of Flamingos.
We headed back to the beach area where we swam for a little while. I thought the water was a bit on the cold side but all of our fellow cruisers who are from Australia, New Zealand and Holland all seemed to think it was pretty nice.
After we headed back to the ship and I had to lay down before supper as I wasn't feeling well, it was actually so bad that I went down for dinner and the first whiff of food made me running for the room. I think that this may have been something that I ate rather than seasickness as it didn't have quite the same symptoms but I seemed to get it out of my system early enough in trip that I hope it will not continue.
So off to an early bed for me today and Dave is not too far behind.

Day 4 - Monday - June 4. 2012

The wake up call today is 5:45 since we have to meet Nelson by 6:15 for our morning hike. So, off we go to look for birds since they are most active during this time. We hike around and see some really beautiful birds of all colors but of course even though Nelson knows all their names, I don't remember much.
Next we head for breakfast which is fruit, granola, bread with jam and scrambled eggs. Yummy!
We are scheduled to do one more hike this morning but Dave and I decide to hang around on our balcony for a while and then we take a short hike on nearby trails. I have to admit that my legs were feeling a bit sore and I don't know if I could have handled another three hour hike.
Lunch for today offered a choice of rainbow trout or chicken and I chose the fish and Dave the chicken. The chicken was served with a warm fruit sauce that tasted like berries but it also had pieces of pineapple and peaches in it as well. It was very different and Dave enjoyed it very much. My trout was grilled and did not have any sauce today which made it even better as I could taste the true flavor of the fish and it was delicious.
It is so nice and tranquil at the cloud forest and we truly enjoyed our time there.
Well, off for our two hour ride home which was uneventful and my stomach totally cooperated.
Back at La Rabida, we settled into room 10 which has a nice garden view, too bad we are only here for one night this time.
For dinner we head off to Achiote which I had read about on trip advisor but we did not enjoy that much. I had grilled fish which was I think a white fish that was cooked well but had no flavor at all and Dave got the fried pork which turned out to be kind of dry. Oh well, it was edible and once we were done we headed back to our room to get our packing sorted for the Galapagos.
Up again early tomorrow but it is sure to be the start of something good.

Day 3 - Sunday - June 3, 2013

Today we got going with a 6:00 am wake up call to get ready for our ride to Bellavista Cloud Forest. We have a nice continental breakfast and then our ride is here to take us along with two other groups to the cloud forest. The ride is two hours long and about an hour in my stomach is starting to threaten a revolution as we continue along some very windy roads but I let it know who is boss and as I close my eyes, and fan my face to keep cool, I miss most of the scenic ride up. But I am back in control and can open my eyes for the last 20 minutes of our ride which is on an uphill winding dirt road. I'm not sure why my stomach didn't rebel here but I was glad to make it in one piece with my breakfast still safe inside of me. And to think I was worried about seasickness - ha!
We get settled into our room and meet out guide Nelson. The reserve is so nice and tranquil with several hummingbirds racing about and feeding around us and we are instantly relaxed.
Nelson explains to us the agenda. We are to go to the mud room and find appropriate boots and then we will meet for our first hike which will be 3 hours long. Dave gives me that look and I know he is again wondering why he let's me talk him into anything!
But, we find boots that fit, grab a walking stick and head out with Nelson and the other 2 couples that we rode up with. One of the couples is from Seattle and the other from Hong Kong.
Nelson starts by telling us all about the hummingbirds and that they have 10 species at the cloud forest. He rambles off the names of many while we are at the feeders but I don't remember any of them but they are all beautiful and some are quite large with a few smaller versions and one that has what looks like white boots and a really long tail with blue on the end. Trying to get pictures while they buzz about proves challenging but we may have gotten a few.
Overall the hike is not too bad and there are not too many steep areas which is not really for Dave and I. Nelson shows us many of the plants and how some are used for paint such as red, purple and yellow and other are medicinal. We use the berries from one plant and crush them and use it for bug repellent. We cut into the bark of a tree and reveal devils blood (yes, it looks like blood) which we rub on our skin and it turns white and we're told it is like an antiseptic and it is instantly sticky and then almost immediately smooth on the skin where it was rubbed. There were plenty of vines, ferns and moss growing everywhere including all over the trees. Among some of the plants and flowers is one called Mother-In-Law tongues which is a round cropping of leaves that look a bit like tongues and at the ends are red and underneath this group of leaves are these spectacular tubular flowers that grow in such a way under these leaves that you do not see them otherwise and only the birds with very curved beaks can get to the nectar of these flowers.
After a long but enjoyable hike we are back at the lodge and lunch is served. First is a vegetable soup with clear broth and several veggies such as carrots, squash, cauliflower and radishes and it's quite good. The main course is rainbow trout caught down in the village with some sweet teriyaki type sauce on it and it was very good. This was all topped off with chocolate pudding.
Lunch was very good and we had a little time to rest before our next hike.
We meet at the hummingbirds again and Nelson tells us that we are taking a difficult hike to go see this nocturnal bird that they recently found that camouflages itself in this tree. Once again I can feel Dave staring into my back. So, we head out onto the road and Nelson shows us this trail that looks like it is completely vertical but he does tell us that we can go around and it is a little less steep so we opt for that route. The trail that we take is still a bit steep but we make it OK and we get to the area where this bird is and at first we're looking towards him and he is perched on this dead tree stump but he's high enough up and far enough away that it looks like all we can see is his little head and beak....well, that was a waste of hike. Then we start to angle past him and he comes into shape and what we thought was tree from the frontal view clearly shows us now that the bird is actually quite large and perched on this tree and now we feel a little better about taking this long trek to come see him. It really was amazing how well he blended in and the once you could really see him, how big he was.
Now we are a bit tired and get to take a break before dinner and Dave and I jump on the chance to chill out in the room for a while.
Dinner is as good as lunch with a creamy potato soup and then a nice shrimp and linguine dish that had a sauce made of local flavors. Dessert was a type of banana bread cake that was very good as well. We had nice conversation with the couple from Hong Kong as they had also been to Africa but in Namibia and they did a self drive safari. We shared stories and pictures of our trips while we enjoyed dinner.
Nelson then told us that we had to be at the hummingbird feeders at 6:15 tomorrow morning and once again I feel the grief from Dave who is confused as to why when we are vacation, do I have him working so hard! But it should be worth it because this is the best time to see the birds.
So, a nice hot shower and then it is time to get some rest for another filled day tomorrow.

Day 2 - Saturday - June 2, 2012

After a good night's sleep Dave and I are glad that we don't have to travel anywhere today. We will check out the New Town area of Quito, better known as "Gringoland". First we have a nice breakfast at the hotel where they cook us eggs to go with the toast, yogurt and fruit they have out. They also have some yummy strawberry juice that really hits the spot. We also are learning to drink "cafe con leche" (coffee with milk) which for us extra cream people that is a stretch but they use warm milk and it is not so strong that we don't drink it.

The hotel is a quaint bed and breakfast type place that only has 11 rooms and the staff has been very helpful in telling us where to visit, where not to go and what not to carry around.
So, after we are full from breakfast and we have our map in hand from gloria, we head out. One turn later and we are lost!!!!! We are so bad, but we quickly right ourselves and head to the Mariscal Sucre that has restaurants and shopping in the main square. This is also were I have to go to Happy Gringo to pick up the rest of my documents. We meet Daniela who has prepared our trip with me and get everything we need for the rest of our trip.
There is a small market in the square so we stop and I test some of my very limited Spanish and find that some things I can understand pretty well, others not so much but the people are very friendly and with a little patience I am able to make a purchase, a little souvenir for my Mom.
Next we continue, without getting lost, to the Cass de la Cultural Ecuatoriana. There is an outdoor market nearby which is much larger that the one we visited in the square and we walk through. I once again master my Spanish and buy a cute scarf for my Spanish teacher. Then we head into the cultural center which houses the Museo del Banco Central which houses exhibits surrounding Ecuador's history and was very interesting.
Thanks to the map that Gloria gave us, we were able to get a taxi and have him take us to the Parque la Carolina which has the botanical gardens that we wanted to see. Because it's Saturday all the families are in the park and there are food vendors around. It's around lunch so we decide, "when in Ecuador..." and I get a bowl of cerviche that  is made with beans and tortillas and a bunch of different sauces and it is interesting to say the least but good still. Dave tries this dish of potatoes and I don't know what it was, it seemed like maybe it was just pork fat and not crispy but cooked in a sauce. It wasn't bad and actually the potatoes were very good, so overall not a bad experiment.
The botanical gardens were nice and we saw quite a few different plants and flowers and they had an amazing orchard greenhouse too so overall this was a nice relaxing stroll for us.
Between the travel and all the walking we needed a break so we headed back to the hotel to relax before dinner.
After a bit of a rest we decided to head out to dinner but it only 5:00 which is a bit early especially for Quito BUT today the national soccer team is playing Argentina in a world cup qualifier and the streets are filled will everyone trying get into a place to watch the game. We find a place called Q which is right in the middle of the action. We get this dinner for 2 plate that has empanadas,  plantains, some pork and beans and these mashed potato cakes filled with cheese. Very good food and with a couple of beers and a great atmosphere watching all the proud Ecuadorians root for their team. Unfortunately the game didn't go so well and the team was down 3 goals at halftime so we decided to sneak out before the locals expressed their displeasure.
Just to prove how swamped it was, while walking back to the hotel we passed by a Subway, yes the sandwich place, that was packed with people watching the game.
Well, tomorrow we are off to the Bellavista Cloud Forest which should be quite a treat.

Day 1 - Friday, June 1, 2012

Who ever said that "getting there was half the fun" didn't travel in our times and have a day like the following:
Get up at 4:30 am to get ready for the shuttle ride to Logan that picks us up at 5:00.
Travel to Logan during Friday morning traffic but still arriving at the airport well before the suggested 2 hour international arrival which I don't really get because things just don't move that slowly.
Finally board for our first leg to Miami at 8:40 and take off pretty much on time. Fairly uneventful flight to Miami.
We have a 3 hour layover here...never easy getting out of Miami but once we arrive we notice that our flight is already delayed by 1/2 hour. Not too bad, we grab some lunch and hang out. Next check of the monitors shows that our flight is now a full hour delayed. I check with the gate agent who says they are waiting on the crew, but the l,and is here and I can see the plane outside so I feel a little better.
We're off to get a drink while we wait for the crew.
Next check yields one and half hours delay now....UGH!!!!! We look out the window and our plane is now gone...so it appears that either the gate agent lied or they switched our plane because of the delays.
After a while, we see the crew come over, good sign. A little while later the gate agent comes on the PA and announces that our plane has landed and they will get the current passengers off, clean the plane and get us on as quickly as possible. He also informs us that there is a storm brewing and we will have to hurry if we have any chance of getting out before it. Well, he obviously jinxed us by saying that and as people are still boarding, Dave and I see lightning out of the window......DAMN.
Sure enough the outside crew has been called inside and cannot work outside with the lighting so we sit on the plane for about an additional 20 minutes. Finally the storm passes the crew is let outside and they finish getting us ready to go.
Now they push us back from the gate and the pilot starts the engine.....what was that noise and why is the power out on the plane?
We are pulled back to the gate where they check things out and it appears that the auxiliary power blew when the pilot was starting the engine but he tells us that has never happened to him before which I'm not sure if that is a good or bad thing.
Maintenance comes along and checks everything out and finally everything is back in working order and we try again to get off the ground but of course between the weather and the electrical issue we are now in a line for take off. Finally we are off and we are about 4 hours late at this point.
The rest of the ride is non eventful with just a little turbulence here and there but nothing too bad. We land in Quito and everyone cheers....people don't do that anymore, just clap when the pilot lands the plane safely...times have changed.
Immigration takes about 50 minutes and we breeze through customs and find our transport in the airport which for midnight is mobbed as there were many planes coming in at that time.
We are safely delivered to the Hostel La Rabida  where we are speedily checked in and get to our room.
There is nothing much to do at this point but hit the sack from our adventurous day of travel.
Tomorrow will surely bring better surprises.

Pre-Trip Planning and Pondering

So, once again I am dragging Dave out into the big, wide world to be my companion on what will surely be a great adventure.
This time we are off to the South American country of Ecuador visiting it's capital city, Quito as well as the Galapagos islands made famous by Charles Darwin and his theory of evolution although his theory was not published until sometime decades after his visit to these remarkable islands.
Per usual, I start my planning by getting a decent guide book and looking for travel forums for my location. I quickly find out that much like our trip to Africa, my head is getting light and I realize that I have forgotten to breath.....whooooosh...There are so many choices of how to visit the islands; land trips, cruises, small cruises, larger cruises, different islands to see, different animals at each.....Stop, I need to get off!!!!
Regroup, gather more info, and finally I am feeling a bit calmer.
Originally I was really just interesting in visiting the Galapagos and to be honest, I really had no idea that they actually belonged to Ecuador or that we couldn't just get there in one day and get started. Most everyone that visits the islands must first land on the mainland of Ecuador which usually involves at least one days stay. So I decide that we will stay on the mainland for a couple days before our trip to the islands and because of flight times, we'll stay another couple of days at the end as well.
So, next is the daunting task of finding a travel operator to help arrange everything. I find a great person, Daniela who works at a company out of Quito Ecuador called "Happy Gringo". Now I can't really believe that I actually booked a trip with a company with such a name but they were highly recommended and as far as pre-trip assistance they have been right on the ball. She helps me arrange the following trip:

Fri Jun 1 - Arrive Quito stay overnight in Rabida hotel

Sat Jun 2 – Free day in Quito. Overnight at Rabida hotel

Sun Jun 3 – Bellavista Overnight

Mon Jun 4 - Morning at Bellavista - return and overnight at Rabida in Quito

Tues Jun 5 - Depart for Samba Galapagos cruise - 7 nights

Tues Jun 12 - Return and overnight in Quito Real Audiencia

Wed Jun 13 – Free day in Quito overnight in Quito Real Audiencia stay

Thurs Jun 14 - Day trip to Otavalo. Real Audiencia stay

Fri Jun 15 – Mitad del Mundo ½ Day tour departure 9am. Real Audiencia stay

Sat Jun 16 - depart for home

Planning for this trip has caused me a little more anxiety than planning for most other trips and for so many different reasons.
The climates in the 2 areas that we are going to are so different. Quito happens to be a bit more than 9000Ft above sea level...really??? So there is some discussions on altitude sickness as something to be concerned about. OK, but then, the cruise is a smaller catamaran cruise and we might get seasick...crap. OK, then, because the climates are different, we really need different clothing for each area, warm weather clothing for the islands and warmer clothing on the mainland..UGH.
OK, then there is the issue of money, I read that things are slightly cheaper and no one has change for larger bills so we should be aware of this, then I also read, but don't carry much on you in case you get pickpocketed or even mugged....really, Dave is not going to like this!!!!
So once again, I start to breathe and remember that I am going for a once in a lifetime adventure and that I should just stop thinking so much, and although it is hard to do, I resolve to do my best at not overthinking the little details.
I visit the doctor to get some altitude sickness pills, some seasickness patches and some all important Cipro just in case my stomach doesn't take nicely to Ecuadorian food. I settle on how much and which denominations of bills and that's it......we're done!
Tomorrow we will set off on what I am sure will be an interesting, educational and as always fun adventure!!